Oh goodness I love Kibou Ridge so much. Before both patch updates, I used to always always visit South Pole and spent a good amount of my time in that map during earlier years. To have a snow map again, one that was crafted with the utmost care, with many places to explore, beautiful weather and the aurora just above, is wonderful. <3 The overhaul on Eastern Pass is also very lovely. Definitely a lot of open space and areas that are fun to explore.
(Also to answer your question on the location of Zama: I’m not certain anything changed but if it hasn’t, the portal to Zama Grotto should be found in Bonfire Islands as well as Kiwimbi Beach. Might be a bit tricky to find it in Bonfire Islands as it’s hidden in a small pool of water beneath a rock outcropping.)